Symptom guide
Car won't start? Here's how to tell what's wrong
The sound your car makes when you turn the key narrows it down fast. Here's how to read it before you spend money on the wrong part.
Narrow it down
What the symptom usually means
Rapid clicking, lights go dim
Almost always the battery, or a corroded connection at the terminal. There's enough power to fire the solenoid over and over but not enough to spin the engine. A jump start will usually get you going — but if it dies again shortly after, the alternator is the real problem.
One firm click, then nothing
That points at the starter. The solenoid engaged, the motor didn't turn. Lights and radio usually stay strong, which is what separates this from a battery problem.
Total silence, no lights, no dash
A completely dead battery, a failed main connection, or a bad ignition switch. If the interior lights don't come on at all when you open the door, start at the battery terminals.
It cranks strongly but won't fire up
The starting system is fine — the engine is turning. Now it's fuel, spark, or something telling the computer not to run: a failed fuel pump, a crank position sensor, an immobiliser issue, or a timing problem. This one needs a proper scan rather than guesswork.
It starts, runs for a second, then dies
Usually a fuel delivery or anti-theft issue. The engine gets enough to catch but not enough to keep running, or the immobiliser is shutting it down after it recognises the key isn't right.
This is a guide, not a diagnosis. Two cars with identical symptoms regularly turn out to have different faults, which is exactly what the scan is for.
Worth knowing
Before you spend money
- Try the headlights first — bright means you have power, dim or dead points at the battery.
- Wiggle the shifter into neutral and try again; a worn neutral safety switch is a surprisingly common no-start.
- Check the battery terminals for white or green crust. A bad connection mimics a dead battery exactly.
- If a jump start works but it dies again within a day, don't buy a battery — get the charging system tested.
Questions
Do I need to tow the car to you?
No. That's the whole point of a mobile mechanic — we bring the tools and the diagnostic equipment to wherever the car is sitting, whether that's your driveway, a work parking lot or the side of the road.
How much does it cost to find out what's wrong?
$95, currently reduced from $125, and it comes off the repair if you have us do the work.
Other symptoms
Where we come to you
Still not sure what it is?
That's what the $95 diagnostic is for — and it comes off the repair if you have us do the work.